Wild
First stop, St Justinians. The chap in Oriel y Parc this morning warned us of the lack of parking, but advised that we “might strike lucky” and snag one of the few parking spaces there. Well, actually, ours was the only car there when we arrived this afternoon but yes, it was clear to see how it would be a real problem in the summertime.
We left the car and took a look around, thinking that perhaps we’d stay up here rather than go down to sea level right now. I took out my map to see what’s what around here.
We were overlooking Ramsey Sound over towards Ramsey Island and standing above the boathouse for the RNLI St Davids Lifeboat. Though we’d been told that these waters were rich in wildlife and this was a favourite route for all kinds of sea life, all was quiet this afternoon.
There was, however, evidence of recent activity.
The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path looked well used here - well maintained too - and is a popular way of exploring the area.
According to the signs on the noticeboard here, the activity was going on below the surface of the water too, with oyster, mussels and scallop cultivation, not to mention the Welsh speciality of seaweed.
One small spot which on this early March afternoon appeared deserted and yet seemed to be a hive of activity, for the farm gate alongside the parked car revealed yet more goings on out there: The Ramsey Sound Tidal Test Site. That narrow stretch of water could prove a substantial energy source as can be seen from this video footage on You Tube. We had noticed boat trips to Ramsey Island on offer in St Davids earlier, but thinking it was a little early in the year for such ventures, we’d given the idea no consideration at all. Watching that video made me thankful for someone with a drone and confirmed the potential as a source of tidal energy!
We’d hardly started our afternoon’s exploration and yet had discovered so much already. We returned to the car, wishing the two workmen in their van enjoying their sandwiches bon appetit as we passed by and spotted one further feature by the pathway.
We read the information plate with interest and shivered thinking of the rescue in those waters. There’s a rather pleasing chapter to add to the story here as well. Remarkable.
Moving on then!
Mid afternoon by now, we’d thought we’d make our next stop at Whitesands Beach, where we might spend an hour with our books and the paper, perhaps. With a bit of luck there might be a mug of tea on offer too?
Well, we were out of luck with the tea, sadly, but there was plenty going on to entertain us if the simple business of watching waves crash on a beach began to pall. The long stretch of sand is a popular place for dog walkers too and we watched as their four legged friends charged off at speed into the distance - and came back, thankfully. But the main show was provided by the surfers who appeared to have endless patience, waiting ages for the perfect wave before falling off just seconds later.
We watched some progress from paddling about in the shallows, practising standing up (and falling off) before going further in, a little at a time.
We wondered just how effective those wetsuits were at keeping the wearer warm, for this was no balmy afternoon for sure, and that water must have been pretty chilly!
Thankfully, it wasn’t so far to Porthgain, because as the afternoon wore on, we were getting hungry! A couple of Welshcakes don’t go far in the lunch stakes and it was a long time since breakfast.
And this was why we’d come, wasn’t it?
Porthgain is far from the cute little harbour town one might see in Cornwall. Its former industrial heritage is clear from the remains of the buildings there on the quayside.
We were interested in this building here, from where some interesting and very appetising aromas were coming!
Everyone around here knows (and loves) The Shed and any mention of coming here brought a smile and an expression of envy from whoever we happened to be talking to. I smiled when we sorted out dinner in the hotel, not needing to explain why we only wanted a table on one evening, “because you’ll be going to The Shed on the other one”.
All I can say is, it didn’t disappoint!
