Out with Birgit
As we said Auf Wiedersehen to our dear friends last evening, Birgit asked if we had plans for the day. Would we like her to share a few of her favourite spots with us?
What sort of a question was that? Of course we would!
She joined us for breakfast and afterwards the three of us headed out, giving the youngsters the time and space to enjoy themselves unencumbered by parents.
First step was to catch the tram from the stop opposite our hotel. It’s a great advantage having someone who is familiar with the network, for sure!
We were heading to a neighbouring suburb, not far in distance but worlds away in terms of atmosphere. Haidhausen is a former working class area now gentrified and popular with affluent young families.
Birgit wanted to show us a few of her favourite places beginning with this tree-lined street which surely would be lovely in the Spring and Summer.
Here were clear remnants of the days when this really was a village
and the two almshouses were used as intended. Now, one is open as a museum and gallery, so in we went!
The bedroom was furnished as the last inhabitants might have left it, in a fairly simple style, though quite how many people would be housed here, I’m not sure.
The other two rooms were the gallery, currently showing the work of Jana Janekovic and Sophie Schmid, mixed media artists who had created some lovely work on show here.
A little further up the street was a pottery and nearby the workshop of a glass artist. Birgit had described this community as lively and creative and the evidence was right here. We could see how this would be the ideal place to raise a family, just minutes from the city centre by bike or by tram.
Strict rules limited development too. Notice the new build sitting unobtrusively in what must have been a rare building plot around here.
The street led us to Bordeauxplatz, in an area Birgit referred to as Little France, because the streets here are named after French cities. More small bakeries, local grocers and a small post office were to be found around here as well, though this morning all were closed and the only signs of life were the dogs and their owners out in the snow.
We were headed for the Ostbahnhof, from where we would catch a bus to our next destination. As we waited, I noted the strange “lost property” on the seats across the way. I wondered how long it would be before the owner misses their baking tin?
Next stop, the Chinese Tower in the English Garden.
Well, yes…
Though the park appeared to be quiet in this corner, we could hear plenty of activity not far away.
We couldn’t possibly pass the glühwein stand without enjoying a hot drink though, could we?
And so we joined a great number of Münchners walking in the snowy park, sadly without our sledge but thankfully well wrapped up against the cold and most importantly, with our winter boots on.
Some pathways, such as that leading to the Monopteros viewpoint, were pretty icy and great care was needed not to fall over.
Though downhill from here was a great slope for sledging and families were out in force making the most of the snowy weekend.
A little further on though, a group of people were attracting attention as they appeared to be undressing by the river.
Surely not? A bikini? In this weather?
Crazy!!
“But just wait till you see around the next corner” said Birgit.
There they were, the river surfers . Good grief.
A short bus ride and here we were in Odeonsplatz - by now I was thinking I really should write all of this down and hastily scribbled some notes in my journal. Would I be able to read them later though?! When we are walking, we have time to work out our bearings, to link locations and relate them to one another. Much as we love to buzz about on public transport, there was a danger of losing the plot somewhere along the way and building a picture of individual snapshots rather than a cohesive whole.
Time to get a grip, Gill!
All was not lost, however, for turning anticlockwise just a few steps and I recognised where we were, for we’d looked out on this very scene from the window in the Residenz yesterday morning! I felt so much better for getting my head around that location dilemma.
Not only that, but I could relate all of this to a previous visit too, with these wonderful wall paintings (Recorded in this blog post, the second of a “walk with us” story from 2012)
From Odeonsplatz, we hopped on a U Bahn towards the University, because Birgit had a special place to share with us.
After “coffee and cake” in a small cafe, we made our way along past the Ludwig Maximilian University towards the Siegestor.
Our destination, however, was in a smaller, less imposing location.
The White Rose was something new to me, though my Hero knew of it already. This was a non-violent resistance group during WW2, several of whom lost their lives for their cause and whose story is memorialised in this building
and in ceramic “papers” set into the pavement outside. Altogether, an utterly chilling story and something I was glad to have learned about.
We couldn’t close our lovely day out with our sweet friend in such a sombre place, though, so hopped on a bus for a bit of a final fling to one of Birgit’s favourite places.
The Hexenhaus - Witches House - is one of several individual locations operated by Gans Woanders
It’s an arts centre, performance space, bar, restaurant, coffee shop and beyond. Had it been earlier, we may well have settled ourselves by the fire pit and listened to the musician on stage, or explored the exhibition inside. Sadly, it was late afternoon, the light was fading, we were tired and it was getting chilly! Never mind - something for next time, for sure!
Heading back on the bus to the Viktualienmarkt and then to our warm hotel, we said our goodbyes to Birgit and promised not to leave it another ten years before we get together again. We’d spent such a marvellous day with her, had seen places and things we would never have found and of course, loved spending the time in her company.
For now though, our aching feet were glad to have a little rest before dinner!
