The leaving of Leith — An Elegant Sufficiency

Our third, unexpected bonus day in Leith began with a blustery wind; the same weather conditions that had prevented us from leaving last night. We eyed the conditions as the day progressed, feeling thankful that by late afternoon things seemed to be calmer and the prospects better. The castle looked lovely today, only overshadowed by the ongoing work to build the tramlines to the Ocean Terminal.

We were a jolly bunch for dinner in the restaurant last evening; sparkling company and the usual first-class service from delightful people who remember our preferences with remarkable accuracy. We are spoiled. The delivery of our disembarkation details in the late afternoon was probably the reminder that such pampering will be coming to an end soon and we’d better make the most of these special days.

I think we were finishing dessert when we spotted a couple of tugs through the (salt-caked) window. We’d felt the engines start up and this was a pretty good indicator that we were indeed going to be on our way soon. We looked at one another and needed no discussion - the four of us hot footed it up on deck, for we all love the business of leaving a port, especially one involving a tricky manoeuvre.

Though we knew the lock was a tight squeeze, there was an audible gasp as we saw the reality. Get our ship out through that tiny space? Well, we’d come through it to get in….

A better view was needed! We joined a few others right up on top for the best view of all. (I was immediately reminded of the last time I stood up here, eyeing up a red footed booby somewhere in the Indian Ocean!)

It was a rather different view this evening as we watched the tug guide the front of the ship s-l-o-w-l-y around to line up and enter the lock. We knew there was another tug doing the same at the stern.

A crew member stood watching the progress.

Inch by inch, slowly slowly, the tug manoeuvred the ship with the greatest accuracy. Though I’m sure there are computer guidance systems, at times like this skilled seamanship must play an enormous part.

Successfully straightened up and with everything going smoothly, we were eager for the next stage. But these things don’t happen quickly and patience was called for!

A small group of people - fishermen, perhaps? - had been watching the process from a little headland opposite. It reminded me of my childhood, when watching the huge North Sea Ferries leave King George Dock in Hull bound for Rotterdam was a regular Sunday afternoon activity for my family. We would marvel at the way such a huge ship could squeeze into such a small space so accurately too.

The best views were from up here on the minigolf course though!

Way out there in the distance, we could see the Forth Bridges.

Can you tell we were getting antsy?

But things were starting to happen. Ropes were being thrown and there was action on the quayside.

Well, action of sorts… I’d been watching this chap sitting on the bench and had joked about him eating his sandwiches. I zoomed in on my camera and suggested they were ham and cheese, but now the photo is on screen I can see that he was taking a photo - of me taking a photo of him….

By now, the tug had tucked itself into a small space in front of us and we seemed to be in place for the water levels to be adjusted.

Just as we were thinking it was time something happened, another chap appeared and we followed his progress as lights came on in the adjacent building. First, the hallway, then the stairs to the first floor, then those to the second floor…we were watching!

Oh yes, we were watching as the light came on in the control room too. Now come on, man, flip that switch and get the water pumping!

Well, right on cue, that water began to swirl in the adjacent basin and progress was underway.

We didn’t think the water levels were that different, but it took a while for the water in the lock to go down to the same level as the estuary.

I think a little cheer went up as the lock gate began to open. The last stage was about to begin.

As the gate opened, the tug began to inch forward.

Someone released our rope…

and we were underway.

The lights on the bridges were shining brightly.

We took the chance to take a look over the side to see how much room we had to spare - not much! Of course, until the whole ship was out of the lock, we still needed to maintain a perfectly straight line.