An Elegant Sufficiency

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Last day - for now!

We were sailing down the canal, approaching Amsterdam this morning. The Captain had said we’d be entering the locks around 4.30am and much as I’d have enjoyed another lock procedure, that sounded a little early, even for us. I had read a little about low water levels causing some ships to adjust their routes recently, so was glad to know that our small ship could manage to make it to the city centre terminal.

We had originally planned to join a long, full day tour to Delft and The Hague this morning, but having enjoyed our day in Ghent yesterday and mindful of everything we wanted to do today, we decided to skip the tour and just go into the city on our own. We’d been here recently and there was nothing we especially wanted to see or do, but on a sunny day, we thought it would be good to just “be here”.

So we were probably a good deal more relaxed that those on this ferry, which we were holding up as we sailed leisurely past. This harbour is so busy, I imagine it happens all the time, but I still wanted to shout “sorry!” for making them wait.

Whilst the officer on the bridge edged us into place on the harbourside, we enjoyed our breakfast.

For the first time this cruise, we were able to sit out on the deck and I could enjoy my Birchermuesli, cranberry juice, croissant and coffee sitting in my favourite place!

Though when we returned to our suite, our housekeeper John had left a reminder of the major task for today. Pack. Hmm.

But first, some fun!

Two tram passes and the city was our oyster for the day. Well, for the morning, anyway.

We’d seen the trams passing on the road adjacent to the Cruise Terminal, so we hopped on one to the Central Station to begin with.

We had forgotten how grand the station is, though the memories of dodging bicycles, trams and the occasional other vehicle soon came flooding back. This is no place to stand and stare without first watching in every direction to check that none of those are going to run you over!

Our plan had been to walk up Damrak for a while before deciding what we’d do next. But walking up this busy street filled with tourist souvenir shops and food outlets wasn’t much fun and the heat was getting to us both.

By the time we reached Dam Square we had both had enough of this part of the city. The queue was beginning to form for visits to the Palace and the one thing both of us craved most was in short supply here in the square - shade.

Finding a quieter part of the city seemed like a good idea, so we hopped on a tram and headed for Keizersgracht in the canal rings, hoping to find the area familiar from that last visit.

I love the quirky, individual architecture here. Wherever I look, there’s something unusual to notice. I just need to be careful of the bikes when distracted by such things!

We were only a couple of tram stops away from the hurly burly of the Damrak, and yet we could have been in a different city altogether.

That’s not to say there were no minor irritations! (Grrr!)

We chose to walk along the canal side in the shade, enjoying the sights and sounds along the way. As I stopped to take a photo of the interesting roof line opposite, I noticed a chap doing something up there on the roof. Can you spot him?

By the time I had zoomed in to take a closer look, he had gone indoors, but I was fascinated to see that there’s a roof garden up there complete with outdoor shower and who knows what other facilities? How lovely to enjoy the space high above the canalside in such a lovely location!

The canals here are peaceful and serene. The houses alongside are desirable residences and some have garages at street level too, cleverly disguised as living quarters. Beautiful.

It’s all a world away from the central station, to which we returned on the tram some time later. The crowded tram ride of just a handful of stops was filled with stories as we stood near the conductor’s “office” and listened as a variety of people told their tales of woe about why they were unable to pay their fare. Top prize went to the young woman who tried, in an annoyingly haughty manner, to explain that her friend’s phone ticket purchase was “pending”, The conductor was having none of it - no ticket, no ride. But, said the young woman, she had purchased the ticket and was simply waiting for the transaction to complete. But no way was that conductor going to allow that one through and the group of friends had to get off. An exhibition of spectacular eye-rolling was the response!

We waited for our tram back to the cruise terminal with the goodies found in the station supermarket: licquorice sweets and stroopwaffel (of course). We reflected on our feelings about Amsterdam too. There are aspects which we find so attractive and interesting and yet in many ways, it is both scruffy and irritating in equal measure. Much like any other city then!

It had been a great “last day”. Interesting enough to tempt us out and about, but not so much that we wanted to stay all day and delay the unavoidable packing. Above all, we felt pleased that we’d not taken the tour as planned. As we returned from Trivia this afternoon, those who had been on that same tour were just returning, having set off early this morning. To do all of that and then have to begin to pack up would have been too much. As it was, we met our friends for drinks and had a delightfully relaxing dinner.

We have an early start tomorrow, though thankfully, not as early as many. Here’s hoping that the travel gods are feeling happy!