Worth the drive!
Another lovely morning as I opened the curtains, approaching Zadar, Croatia. We’d not been to this part of the world previously and we’re not really understanding why! Clearly, we’ve been missing out and the last couple of days have really whetted our appetite for more.
We’d heard how special Zadar is too, so when we looked at the offerings for tours today and my Hero spotted Diocletian’s Palace there, it was a tough decision. Diocletian’s Palace was top of the list, but wasn’t in Zadar at all but in Split, a two hour drive away. We decided it was worth the trip and the decision was made.
The trouble was, the journey along the motorway was anything but interesting. So much so, that Ana, our guide perked up to point out the only feature along the way: the Krka River Valley. We hoped the Palace would be worth missing Zadar for.
As we approached Split, there was another distinctive feature in the form of a steep cliff face.
Driving down into the city, we began to look forward to our day!
Amongst the first things we’ve noted here in Croatia is the love of football. We’d seen quite a few T shirts on sale with this same name on - though not being football fans ourselves, we have no idea…
Anyway, Ana gathered her group around the map of Diocletian’s Palace to explain where we stood and what her plans were. In front of us was not a “palace” in the usual sense of the word at all, but a large complex built by the Roman Emperor in the 4th century AD mainly for his own purposes but also to house his troops and his household.
We were walking alongside the present day harbourside, where shops and cafes had been built into the original wall structure of arches and cellars.
We entered the palace complex through one of these cellars, via the Bronze Gate. down here is now a bustling marketplace; a kind of bazaar selling all kinds of touristy things.
It opens into the Peristile, a central area where the main streets cross. This open area was a great place to gather and take a first look at our surroundings. Here was the entrance to the cathedral, formerly Diocletian’s tomb, where a service was currently under way - it being Sunday.
Looking back from where we’d come, the two levels were clear to see with one set of steps going up and another going down, with the hordes of people arriving in groups, much like ours. It was around now that I realised it was no use trying to take photographs without people in them and neither was it any use trying to stay out of other people’s snaps. Wait for them to compose their shot and we’d wait forever!
So the only photos without others in them are those looking up! Here there were small details such as this medieval stone remnant from the time when Venice ruled this part of the world.
Whilst we stood here, gazing at so many beautiful corners and trying to take it all in, we could hear voices. Singing. Was there a choir around here? Was it coming from the church?
We climbed the steps up to the area above the bazaar and the answer was there in front of us.
These four gentlemen were singing a capella in traditional Dalmatian style and it sounded wonderful. No wonder they were attracting such attention and doing brisk business selling their CDs!
From here, Ana led us to the Golden Gate, allowing us to get our bearings a little. The streets were clear and well laid out but all looked rather similar!
Through here were some gardens and the most enormous statue which reminded us of one of the huge figures we’d seen years ago whilst in the Caucasus. Here was also a good illustration of how the structure has been altered through the centuries - arches blocked in, doorways opened up, bits added and taken away here and there. I found it really difficult to work out what was “original” and what wasn’t.
This one was identified by Ana as Gregory of Nin, an early Croatian bishop who tried to have the bible and services translated into Croatian language. The statue is one of three in the Palace by Ivan Meštrović, each of them bearing his hallmark of long fingered hands.
As we stood gazing through the gateway, I did my best to remember to look up as well! Here was another of those places where it was a challenge to work out what was built when.
So much to see here! In lots of corners like this one, groups of people were standing and admiring, listening to their guide and just taking their time to absorb it all. We did exactly the same! It was great to have the time to take it all in and not have to rush through.
So we had time to notice a little figure of St George, which must post date Diocletian, who was a well known persecutor of Christians (I am told!)
Still looking up now and again, the noise from this bell tower had reminded us that it was getting near lunchtime.
Before that, we had some time to explore the streets ourselves, so my Hero and I headed for the Silver Gate with a little map, trying to find the hidden corners that we had missed so far.
We headed towards the Iron Gate, where Venetian walls enclosed this small square, scene of another of those long fingered statues, this one of a Croatian poet. The statue of Marko Marulić, also by Ivan Mestrovic is not really as headless as he appears in my photograph, believe me!
These small streets were filled with Air BnBs, small hotels, little cafes and restaurants, all of whom were doing brisk business it seemed. No time to linger now though as we were due to meet up with our group again. Ana had organised tickets for us to go inside the cathedral now the service was over.
Inside the original circular mausoleum, there now stood an altar which had formerly housed Diocletian’s tomb. A rectangular extension had been built behind this altar and the sarcophagus, built from porphyry red marble was destroyed, though parts of the pulpit and a few other decorative details were constructed using the distinctive remains of that red stone.
Above our heads was the most spectacular Roman dome. Wow.
The details were spectacular and the mixture of styles fascinating.
Having seen the Cathedral, we went back over the street to the Baptistry, which had been the Roman Temple of Jupiter. The third and final statue - by now, we could recognise the style - of John the Baptist was here, under the original Roman roof. Oh my word.
Now it really was time to return to the “real world” outside the walls of the palace and head for lunch. The morning had passed so quickly but now Ana mentioned it, the idea of something to eat was a good one!
We walked a little further along the harbour front to a square which looked remarkably like St Mark’s Square in Venice and where tables had been reserved for our group. An hour and a half later, it was time to return to the coach, for we had that same long drive back to Zadar.
Had it all been worth it?
Of course it had! We were both 100% certain of that. We’ll just have to come back and see Zadar next time!
